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Thread: Multi switch for security ights

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    Multi switch for security ights

    So i am busy installing my security lights ... i will be able to read a book sitting anywhere on my property if the security lights are on.

    The system involves multi switching points ... i need to check if anyone has a better option.

    If an alarm zone is violated or the panic is activated ... all the security lights switch via a PGM output on the alarm PCB.

    If i arrive home and i suspect there might be someone on the property ... i can switch on the security lights either by pressing and holding anyone of the 4 remote buttons for more than 3 seconds ... which will activate the silent panic or i can press button 3 and it will switch on the security lights.

    If i wake up in the night i can either press the panic button in the headboard or use the 4 button remote option or using the app on the tablets or any of the phones or the light switches in the bedroom or kitchen.

    The question ... what would you use to activate the relay which switches all the lights on/off ?

    I am thinking the cheapest simplest way to switch the lights on/off ... using bell press switches ... a flip/flop relay and a lighting contactor.

    There are a few other options:

    A sonoff switch ( cheapish)

    A small PLC ... like a siemens logo (a little more expansive)

    a home automation hub (a little more expensive)

    One of my concerns is that the unit fails ... then i sit in the dark ... i do have general lighting around the house ... so i wont be completely in the dark.

    Most of the wiring is complete ... the junction boxes are in the roof ... multi core control wires between the house and the outbuilding are installed.

    I am installing an inverter ... in case of a power failure ... however i dont want to rely on wireless ... I want the hard wire option.
    Comments are based on opinion...not always facts....that's why people use an alias.

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    Hi Ians

    which one did you decide to go with? There are a few other options depending on how technical you are. An Adruino or Raspberry Pi might be able to accomplish what you want.

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    I havent decided yet ... I am busy installing all the cabling to a central junction box ... fitting all the light and experimenting with wattage and angle.

    Learnt a few thing about LED lighting ... they create hectic shadows ... and are not user friendly ... by that i mean you cant look at them ... so you have to take that into consideration ... my neighbour for example ahs installed hectic bright LED floods ... but positioned them so badly that they shine into my face ... if someone was hiding behind his vehicle ... I wouldnt even be able to see the person ... and the catch nor would he.

    Taking all this into conideration ... i have fitted different wattage lights ... spoken to all the neighbours and adjusted the lights accordingly ... now when the lights are actviated its win win for everyone.

    I am also looking into lights for when the silent panic is activiated ... i was going to install big red strobes around the house ... but the idea of having silent panics ... is not make the house invader aware of the panic avitaction ... so i am busy looking into lights which everyone can see from around the house ... but not know they are on while inside the house ... after speaking to a few house invasion victims ... this seems to be a big thing ... the terrorists get very abusive rough when the alarm is screaminng ... all my neighbours kitchens face my house ... so the positioning of these lights will be important.
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    Thinking out loud :

    All the triggers to switch the security lights on and off will be a 1 -3 second pulse.

    the touch /bell press light switch ... the remote ... the alarm programable outputs (zone or panic or app trigger).

    Its not that simple ... what if I switch on the lights using the remote and the alarm activates ... or if you walk past a zone and it triggers the ... the flip/flop relay will switch the lights off ... so i need to add a holding timer ... if the circuit is triggered ... it holds until it times out ...no matter if any other device triggers.
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    Diamond Member Justloadit's Avatar
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    Use a delay timer with self latching on your pulse circuit.
    In other words, when you trigger, the timer is powered, and with the spare contacts self powers, when the time is up, user settable, the relay falls out and the timer resets. The other contacts will be used to drive your light circuit.
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    Solar and LED lighting solutions - www.microsolve.co.za

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    Quote Originally Posted by Justloadit View Post
    Use a delay timer with self latching on your pulse circuit.
    In other words, when you trigger, the timer is powered, and with the spare contacts self powers, when the time is up, user settable, the relay falls out and the timer resets. The other contacts will be used to drive your light circuit.
    Doing it this way could make it simpler ... pulse the timer from any trigger ... it times out and switches off ... and if zone is triggered whe you walk past a zone it will just reset the timer or extend the time the lights stay on.

    I am going to do this for my 1500 watt flood light ... everytime i switch it on i can feel my bank account draining
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    Diamond Member Justloadit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ians View Post
    Doing it this way could make it simpler ... pulse the timer from any trigger ... it times out and switches off ... and if zone is triggered whe you walk past a zone it will just reset the timer or extend the time the lights stay on.

    I am going to do this for my 1500 watt flood light ... everytime i switch it on i can feel my bank account draining
    For re-triggering when already timing requires a different timer, one called Interval Pulse Start Timer. which has a switch input to trigger the timer.

    With respect to 1500W flood light, I would suggest to change it to a 100W LED flood light, much cheaper to run with similar light output.
    Victor - Knowledge is a blessing or a curse, your current circumstances make you decide!
    Solar and LED lighting solutions - www.microsolve.co.za

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    Quote Originally Posted by Justloadit View Post
    For re-triggering when already timing requires a different timer, one called Interval Pulse Start Timer. which has a switch input to trigger the timer.

    With respect to 1500W flood light, I would suggest to change it to a 100W LED flood light, much cheaper to run with similar light output.
    thanks i will look into it.

    The 1500 watt serves a purpose ...i have a vacant plot next to my property ... replacing it is part of the plan ... but i might just keep it there for "in case of emergency"

    There are pros and cons with using LED lights

    Pros :

    They seem brighter than standard old lights.

    They are cheaper on electricity (if they have a 0.95 PF ... most cheap imports have around 0.3 PF)

    You dont need curtains in your house if you plan your LED lighting ... you can prevent people from looking at your house by blinding them

    Cons :

    They are more expansive to buy.

    They have to be replaced if the driver or lamps fails ... no mainteance support.

    They creating a security risk due to the blinding light they emit ... good if you are looking from out from behind the light ... really bad if you end up on the wrong side ... this is becoming a huge prblem as neighbours rush out and get sparkies to install "security" lights without a little consideration and planning.

    an example ... I have built shields which protect me from the massive bright lights shining start at my house ... they cause problem for my CCTV and now i cant see into the next door property ... so he is on his own ... and even when i could ... the bad planning and installation of his lights creates so many dark shadows for "crimminlas" to hide on his property.

    I got hold of my neighbours on the other side ... planned my lighting taking wattage and angle into account and with them in mind ... now the light doesnt blind them in their kitchen ... they are happy because it also throws just enough light onto their property ... a win win.

    Bad power factor ... some of the better quality light do state they havea 0.95 pf ... i have a power quality analyser.

    low wattage low power consumption ... if you install 10 x 50 watt LED lights ... that is 500 watts of power add a 0.3 pf mmm ... I have noticed people think because they install LED ...it just remains cheap no matter how many they install.

    Expensive to buy and expansive to replace ... and no maintance support ... i am busy looking into replacing my workshop lights with LED ... R62 x 16 = R992 as opposed to R12 x 16 = R192 ...its all tax deductable and i prefer the light from the old tubes ... and less shadows.
    Comments are based on opinion...not always facts....that's why people use an alias.

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