Electrical CoC

[danelsmit@oldmutual.com]

We bought a new house 2 years ago and received the electrical Coc from the builder. We now sold the house and upon inspection was told that none of the downlighters were earthed. I took this up with the original electrician who told me that the downlighters does not have to be earthed as it is higher than 2,4m. What is the rule around earthed light fittings?

We are also getting mixed messages from different contractors and it is a bit difficult to google and get to the right answer. When an aircon is not permanently connected, so it has a manual plug to insert into the wall socket to switch it on, must it still have an isolator?

A light fitting in a bathroom that is completely rusted is no longer waterproof. Must it be replaced as it is a security hazard because it is in a bathroom or am I missing something? Is there a requirement that all light fittings must work or not?

[Dylboy]

The downlight and the earthing is quite controversial.

If the fitting has an earth terminal then it must be earthed.

The tricky bit is not all down light holders have Earth terminals. This is when the out of arms reach comes into play for people.

Others say as it is metal and extraneous it must be earthed but if there is no earth terminal then they don't do it. Also the GU10 fitting is what gets the connection not the actual metal downlight holder so then some say it's not extraneous.

Lets see what others say.

As for lights they don't have to work, the CoC covers only the wiring.

If the Aircon is on a plug then it satisfies isolation properties so does need an Isolator.

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[Dylboy]

Also the rusted light should be changed as it is incorrectly selected and installed. Should be plastic in most cases.

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[Derlyn]

If the downlight holder is metal, it needs to be earthed using a GU10 connector that has a comb like feature for earthing purposes.

If your geyser is in the attic, then it's higher than 2,4m and out of arms reach when standing on the floor.
I'm sure that same electrician who used the higher than 2,4m reason not to earth the downlights will agree that the geyser must be earthed even although it's higher than 2,4m.

For COC purposes, the lights do not have to work. The circuit up to the fitting, however, must be in order.
No fixed appliances such as stoves, aircons or lights are covered by the COC. Note 3 on the test report is crystal clear.

If the aircon is not built in ( attached to the wall ) it does not need an isolator.
Had it been a fixed appliance, it would have needed an isolator or socket outlet within arms reach of the appliance.

[Dylboy]

For the Aircon so yes socket is fine as uncle said


6.16.1.2 The power supply to every fixed appliance, except luminaires, shall
be supplied through
a) a disconnecting device that disconnects both live conductors in a single￾phase supply and all phase conductors in a multiphase supply, or
b) a socket-outlet that is directly accessible at all times that any person is
exposed to such appliance while the supply is on. In the case of a remotely
installed appliance, the position of the disconnecting device shall be
indicated by means of a notice in close proximity to or on the appliance.

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[Isetech]

We bought a new house 2 years ago and received the electrical Coc from the builder. We now sold the house and upon inspection was told that none of the downlighters were earthed. I took this up with the original electrician who told me that the downlighters does not have to be earthed as it is higher than 2,4m. What is the rule around earthed light fittings?

The silly downlight design, makes it near impossible to earth. Provided there is an earth connected at the terminal box, realistically you dont have a case.

We are also getting mixed messages from different contractors and it is a bit difficult to google and get to the right answer. When an aircon is not permanently connected, so it has a manual plug to insert into the wall socket to switch it on, must it still have an isolator?

If the aircon is designed to plug into the wall, like a 9000 BTU, then it is ok, provided the cable has not been extended to reach the socket outlet. Large aircon units are designed to be connected to an isolator, so they do not have a plug top hanging out the front.

A light fitting in a bathroom that is completely rusted is no longer waterproof. Must it be replaced as it is a security hazard because it is in a bathroom or am I missing something? Is there a requirement that all light fittings must work or not?

A few things would need to be considered, the height the zone and hazard. A COC can be issued for damaged electrical equipment (I learnt this during an audit on a sold property) , provided live electrical parts cannot be touched with a standard test finger.

This people is why I insist my customer contact me prior to signing the transfer papers, as the buyer you have the power to decide if you will accept the COC of not.

Once you sign the transfer papers, it then becomes a legal battle with the DOL and AIA's.

[Derlyn]

I had a buyer at Sunrise on Sea recently who tried to get clever together with his electrician after I had issued a COC for the house.

I chucked the book at them and they both retreated with their tales between their legs.

It works both ways.

Just do things by the book and YAIC.

[Isetech]

Once the transfer goes through, I agree 100 %, the buyer has to accept the regs as per the book, if they are not happy they have to go the legal route. They have to pay for the DOL to investigate if they believe the COC is not valid, if the COC is not valid then get a quote to repair and pay for any repairs required... etc ...etc.

However as a buyer you dont have to accept anything until you sign the transfer document.

For example if the house reasonably safe, but you can see you are in for a total rewire in a couple of months or years, a few circuit might be clear, but your electrician has pointed out old VIR wiring on some circuits, you as the buyer can negotiate the price. If you buy the house and then find these issues, the COC could be legit, so at that point there is nothing you can do.

If the house has 1 x surface mount DB and a prepaid meter in the middle of lounge with 20 x 1.5 mm cabtyre running off to the lights and plugs, it may be reasonably safe, but could be a huge factor for the price you are paying for the house. At that point you could still negotiate the price, once the transfer goes through, the COC would still be legit, so you have no claim against the buyer or the inspector who issued the COC.

Fact: A COC is required for the sale of a property.

How you address the state of the electrical installation before and after the sale is what is important understand.

Before the transfer documents are signed, the buyer and seller negotiate terms of the sale and the state of the elctrical installation.

Once the transfer document is signed, the seller pays for EVERYTHING, from the DOL investigation, the repairs, the court case you name it, if you win then you have to claim all your expenses.

I suppose you could trust that the buyer has you best interest at heart

[Isetech]

Silly petty things like

exposed wires between the terminal block,

earthing downlights,

exposed metal light fittings higher than 2.4 m,

cracked switches and socket outlet covers,

DB's behind the fridge,

or above the stove,

or in cupboard,

Cabtyre feeding circuits,

Rip cord used for security lighting from a plug top,

Transformers feeding gates motors from the garage 50 m away,

intercom and power cables in the same wireway,

roof spaces which look like an alarm installer wired up everything,

there are so many I am not going to list them all

could create a lot more hassle than they are worth.

I am going to say it again, check the property before you sign the transfer papers, otherwise dont squeal when you find all these things once you move in.

[Isetech]

Let me say it again in case someone might have missed it:

Fact: A COC is required for the sale of a property.

Until you sign the transfer paper, the seller is liable for the elctrical installation and price is still negotiable.

Once you sign the transfer papers, the buyer is liable for "all costs" if they feel the COC is not legit, the investigation, the repairs, including the court case to recover the costs.

Think about it before you sign the transfer document.

[skatingsparks]

I'm going to put what I think after each one - see what everytome else says

Silly petty things like

exposed wires between the terminal block, - Fail

earthing downlights, - if metal and not earthed - fail - us SANS approved GU10 lamp holder (with earth)- don't like them but can't fail them

exposed metal light fittings higher than 2.4 m, - fail

cracked switches and socket outlet covers, - fail - not suitable for use

DB's behind the fridge, - grey area - you can't stop people putting fridge over their DB - was the fridg ethere when you tested - note in commenct section

or above the stove, - fail

or in cupboard, - in a domestic - fine as the owner knows where to isolate if a problem - I'll lable the cupboard during CoC

Cabtyre feeding circuits, - apparently its ok now according the new reg - haven't had to deal with it yet so haven't looked it up

Rip cord used for security lighting from a plug top, - fail

Transformers feeding gates motors from the garage 50 m away, - not sure i get that one?

intercom and power cables in the same wireway, - technically, a fail

roof spaces which look like an alarm installer wired up everything, - usually a fail after some scratching around

[Isetech]

For the record, cracked switches and plugs is not a fail, as I learnt he other day doing a COC audit. So long as you cant touch exposed wires with the standard test finger it is a pass if the cover is cracked.

Just anotehr reason you wan the installation checked before you sign the transfer papers. Once you sign, you pay to replace the cracked covers or sockets and switches.