Can the cooker hood be deemed part of the cooking appliance?

[Dave A]

We have found a situation where a built-in oven, hob and the cooker hood in a domestic kitchen are all supplied off the same isolator?

The most common arrangement is the cooker hood is supplied via a socket outlet.

The cooking appliance is rated at more than 16 A so a dedicated circuit is required.

Can the cooker hood be deemed a part of the cooking appliance and thus be supplied via the same circuit?
(Solving the problem via 6.16.3.2.3 is not a viable option in this instance).

[GCE]

Hi Dave

Straight off the cuff , I would say yes ( 6.16.3.1.1) , subject to wire size , ratings etc which will more than likely turn it to a NO

If the wiring size from the isolator to the extraction fan is rated according to the CB feeding the circuit then I think you are covered.
I would not be comfortable with a 40Amp CB feeding an extractor fan , but there would be nothing wrong with installing a fuse within the extraction fan as part of the fixed appliance (6.16.1.1 )

6.16.3 Cooking appliances
NOTE Cooking appliances include built-in stoves, oven hobs, and the like (see also
6.16.1).
6.16.3.1 Switch-disconnector
6.16.3.1.1 The circuit that supplies a cooking appliance through fixed wiring,
a stove coupler (see 6.16.3.3), or an industrial type socket-outlet (see
SANS 60309-1), shall have a readily accessible switch-disconnector. The
switch-disconnector may supply more than one appliance

[Derlyn]

Hi Dave

My 2 cents worth is as follows:

Both the oven and hob are supplied with instructions that they are to be connected by a registered electrician.
For guarantee purposes, the appropriate labels on these 2 need to be filled in by the electrician on installing and connecting.

The cooker hood, however, is supplied with a plug top fitted. Clearly the intention is for it to be plugged into a socket outlet.

I therefore insist on a socket outlet for the cooker hood.

Like I said, my 2 cents worth.

Regards ... Derek

[Derlyn]

Hi Dave

This is what I really like about this forum.

We all benefit by questions asked and answers given as well as debate.

I think most of us, myself included, forget that besides the installation having to comply with SANS 10142-1 edition 2, it must also comply with manufacturer's instructions. This is covered in 5.1 Fundamental requirements. General.

It reads: All commodities in an electrical installation shall be installed in accordance with the requirements in this part of SANS 10142 and with the manufacturer's instructions, where applicable.

Because the cooker hood is supplied with a plug top, the manufacturer's instruction is that it must be plugged in to a plug socket outlet.

Regards ... Derek

[Dave A]

Because the cooker hood is supplied with a plug top, the manufacturer's instruction is that it must be plugged in to a plug socket outlet.

Where a device is supplied with a plug top, the manufacturer has certainly facilitated the electrical device to be connected to an electrical supply via a socket outlet. Does that constitute an instruction that the device may only be connected via that plug top if the installation manual is not specific on this particular point?

[Derlyn]

Hi Dave

From my experience, Defy is probably the most popular brand of stoves, ovens and cookerhoods.

Owners manual of Defy cookerhoods reads : Connect the appliance to a 15A 230V 50Hz earthed wall socket.


Regards Derek

[GCE]

Hi Derlyn

I often refer to the clause you mention and it works well under certain circumstances.
I disagree with you in this particular instance.
The complete clause along with note 2 bears relevance.The "stringent"being the applicable bit mentioned in the body of the regulation.

5.1 General
All commodities in an electrical installation shall be installed in accordance
with the requirements in this part of SANS 10142 and with the
manufacturer's instructions, where applicable.
NOTE 1 This clause contains the general safety principles applicable to electrical
installations.
NOTE 2 The manufacturer's instructions may contain more stringent requirements

The owners manual you refer to suggests that you use a 15Amp wall socket and nowhere does it use the word "shall" .

I think we all agree that an extraction hood is a fixed appliance and a motor.

6.16.1.2 The power supply to every fixed appliance, except luminaires, shall
be supplied through
a) a disconnecting device that disconnects both live conductors in a singlephase
supply and all phase conductors in a multiphase supply, or
b) a socket-outlet that is directly accessible at all times that any person is
exposed to such appliance while the supply is on. In the case of a
remotely installed appliance, the position of the disconnecting device
shall be indicated by means of a notice in close proximity to or on the
appliance

The regulations require that every fixed appliance is supplied through an isolator or a socket and must be accessible at all times.We have a choice and in this particular instance the electrician choose to use an isolator
A socket in a cupboard that the extraction hood is connected to is less accessible than a stove isolator .

I do not believe that supplying the extraction hood from a socket outlet is "more stringent" than supplying from a isolator. The section from the manufacturer comes from the standard Defy 600 Slimline manual
If you take the Island extraction fan manual from Defy , it suggests that you use an electrician to make the call. ( https://www.defy.co.za/wp-content/up...ood-Manual.pdf )

If the Defy manual used the wording "must or shall" then I would agree with you - In this instance it is merely a suggestion and if you look in context with the island extraction fan were it recommends that a electrician installs it suggests that for the Defy slimline the 15Amp socket is fitted for convenience for the handyman that does not need a electrician to connect up the fan.

I still do not find anything that prevents me from connecting the extraction fan to the stove isolator if the wire sizing is correct.

[SeanM]

Greetings All

I would agree with GCE as most of all the appliances purchased recommend a qualified electrician ( I do believe the wording should be registered person) so if for whatever reason the registered person on site decides to use an isolator or socket so be it.

My personal annoyance is when the plugs get cut off (not illegal though) they make maintenance a lot easier you see it alot with pool pumps.

[ians]

I would be interested to see the wiring configuration.,

From past experience with this type of thing...the cooker hood is connected directly to the wall isolator ...chased up the wall using 2.5 mm twin + e ...the shortest route...and connected to the connector block in the cooker hood.

The other would be open wiring behind the the under counter...all the wires joined together with a big screwit.

The last being the right way (in my eyes)...a 6 mm wire from the 45 amp isolator via a pipe in the wall ...with a piece of flexible conduit or copex screwed on to the pipe terminated into the back of the under counter...which has a row of plug connectors which are used to connect the hob...with a 15 amp removable fuse mounted in the same area as the plug connectors ...clearly labelled cooker hood...with a pipe chased into the wall so that when you remove he cooker hood for whatever reason ...you can remove the cable....or a flush mounted plug (like they have on a ups)on the cooker hood...with a female plug on the cable feeding from the under counter oven.