Geyser Problems

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  • Roland26
    Email problem
    • Jun 2014
    • 3

    #1

    Geyser Problems

    Hi i have a problem with my geyser, i replaced the element and the thermostate but the water is very very low, i tried to increase the level on the thermostate but still nothing. my geyser is not leaking, the water only went low so i changed everything i could but still nothing please give me advice on what ells i can check
  • msmoorad
    Bronze Member

    • Jan 2009
    • 179

    #2
    Originally posted by Roland26
    Hi i have a problem with my geyser, i replaced the element and the thermostate but the water is very very low, i tried to increase the level on the thermostate but still nothing. my geyser is not leaking, the water only went low so i changed everything i could but still nothing please give me advice on what ells i can check
    what do u mean "low"?
    low temperature or low quantity of water in geyser?
    A “conspiracy theory” no longer means an event explained by a conspiracy. Instead, it now means any explanation, or even a fact, that is out of step with the government’s explanation and that of its media pimps.

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    • AndyD
      Diamond Member

      • Jan 2010
      • 4946

      #3
      Geyser Problems

      Hi Roland and welcome to the forum.

      I've taken your post you made in someone elses intro thread and made it into a new thread of its own for you.
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      • Roland26
        Email problem
        • Jun 2014
        • 3

        #4
        hi do you have a suggestion for me regarding my geyser????

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        • Roland26
          Email problem
          • Jun 2014
          • 3

          #5
          yesterday i changed my circuit breaker but the geyser still dont want to get warm, what ells can i do

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          • Houses4Rent
            Gold Member

            • Mar 2014
            • 803

            #6
            I take it there is electricity at the geyser terminals?
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            • AndyD
              Diamond Member

              • Jan 2010
              • 4946

              #7
              You need test equipment to go any further. A geyser is a very simple device, first you need to test the supply at the geyser itself. If you have 230v L-N and 230v L-E and 0v N-E then you need to test the voltage across the element terminals. If there's 230v across the element and it's not heating then it'sa faulty element. If there's no voltage across the element then the switch contact in the thermostat isn't closed so the thermostat is either incorrectly set or it's faulty.

              If you're not competent to carry out electrical tests or if you don't own a tester or if you're not sure how to prove the if supply is present or if it's isolated then rather call an electrician.
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              • msmoorad
                Bronze Member

                • Jan 2009
                • 179

                #8
                What could be the problem is the enery/power saving cutoff that many here in Durban have installed on their DB. Its set to switch off the geyser at a certain time. In winter, this causes the water in the geyser to get cold, though in summer, u find the waters still hot whenever u need it. Our ones are small white boxes made by Ellies.
                A “conspiracy theory” no longer means an event explained by a conspiracy. Instead, it now means any explanation, or even a fact, that is out of step with the government’s explanation and that of its media pimps.

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                • AndyD
                  Diamond Member

                  • Jan 2010
                  • 4946

                  #9
                  Very good point, I assume thisdevice is a ripple relay or is it a programmable timer. Either way these types of devices maen the geysre could be automatically switched on or off at any time which means safe isolation is more important than ever if you're working on one.
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                  • wynn
                    Diamond Member

                    • Oct 2006
                    • 3338

                    #10
                    Also your new thermostat probably needs to be zeroed, quite often they stick when new or temperature is changed, simply turn the little heat gauge indicator all the way to max (You should hear or feel it click) then turn it all the way back to zero (you should hear or feel it click again) before turning it to the desired temperature setting (do this last setting in a single movement because if you stop halfway that may result in the temperature being set at the pause position).
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                    • Leecatt
                      Silver Member

                      • Jul 2008
                      • 404

                      #11
                      Originally posted by wynn
                      Also your new thermostat probably needs to be zeroed, quite often they stick when new or temperature is changed, simply turn the little heat gauge indicator all the way to max (You should hear or feel it click) then turn it all the way back to zero (you should hear or feel it click again) before turning it to the desired temperature setting (do this last setting in a single movement because if you stop halfway that may result in the temperature being set at the pause position).
                      ??
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