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    Installing a Sunsynk inverter

    The unit has arrived. Now we start the process of setting up the unit ready for installation.

    First thing I removed the mounting bracket ready to get templates made, one for my workshop wall and the modified version.

    Why a modified version, cooling, everyone talks about the importance of cooling, then you receive an inverter with a heat sink on the back of the unit which is 3 mm off the wall, really, I would have thought a little more consideration would have been taken in account for the cooling. The first modified bracket will be longer (top to bottom) and have a space of at least 50 mm away from the wall to allow for cooling.

    I a have also considered making along bracket which will support the inverter and battery with a 100 mm gap at the back, this will also allow me to fit small fans with temp control and hide the trunking or any wires I need to go up the back, that way there is no crossing of wires in the trunking.

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    We all talk about AC and DC separation, as I remove the cover, the DC isolator for the PV and the AC main switch are mounted right next to each other. Come on Keith, I thought you guys would have read the some of the regs and paid attention to little details like this.

    I would have moved the first entry gland on the right hand side over to the left and fitted the AC on/off switch away from the DC. Maybe the little wires to and from the the AC switch are DC or low voltage, but we will only know as we dig deeper and learn about the unit.

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    Another thing with DC and AC seperation is that I see you have these AC and DC combined protection boxes. Now I am not sure if there is a plastic sheet between the two compartments and then what is the description of SEPERATION ? What makes something separate...? Pvc insulation in my view electrically seperates...?

    Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dylboy View Post
    Another thing with DC and AC seperation is that I see you have these AC and DC combined protection boxes. Now I am not sure if there is a plastic sheet between the two compartments and then what is the description of SEPERATION ? What makes something separate...? Pvc insulation in my view electrically seperates...?

    Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
    The seperation of the AC and DC once in the equipment has no safety value, ultimately the DC negative, and the Mains Neutral are seperated by the volt drop across a diode, or 0.7V, so seperating the incoming AC/DC has no benefit other than a higher cost.
    Generally any DC switching done in the inverters are control signals, the actual heavy work is done by the power devices, such as IGBTs and FETs.
    Victor - Knowledge is a blessing or a curse, your current circumstances make you decide!
    Solar pumping, Solar Geyser & Solar Security lighting solutions - www.microsolve.co.za

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    Then we need a solar calculator. I see there calculators, if we get more than 10 installs (6 so far, 4 to go) , then I will get a paid version.

    https://www.helioscope.com/

    If you know of any good free calculators, let us know.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Isetech View Post
    Then we need a solar calculator. I see there calculators, if we get more than 10 installs (6 so far, 4 to go) , then I will get a paid version.

    https://www.helioscope.com/

    If you know of any good free calculators, let us know.
    Try this one - Works well and allows you to customize settings to suit

    https://www.opensolar.com/

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    Isetech (09-Aug-22)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Isetech View Post
    Why a modified version, cooling, everyone talks about the importance of cooling, then you receive an inverter with a heat sink on the back of the unit which is 3 mm off the wall, really, I would have thought a little more consideration would have been taken in account for the cooling. The first modified bracket will be longer (top to bottom) and have a space of at least 50 mm away from the wall to allow for cooling.

    I a have also considered making along bracket which will support the inverter and battery with a 100 mm gap at the back, this will also allow me to fit small fans with temp control and hide the trunking or any wires I need to go up the back, that way there is no crossing of wires in the trunking.
    Cooling in the terms referenced to a heatsink is about the movement of air to remove the heat from the heatsink. The smaller the gap between the heatsink and the wall, the better the effect, as it then acts as a chimney causing a small wind to occur. Moving the heatsink far away from the wall changes the way the air flows over the heatsink, and you lose the chimney effect, and the faster moving air over the heatsink. There was thought put into the design of the Sunsync inverter.

    A similar question would be, does a black anodised heatsink work better than a natural colour anodised heatsink?
    Actually there is no difference because it is about surface area exposed to the environment, and black costs more but does look nicer.
    Victor - Knowledge is a blessing or a curse, your current circumstances make you decide!
    Solar pumping, Solar Geyser & Solar Security lighting solutions - www.microsolve.co.za

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    Derlyn (07-Aug-22)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Justloadit View Post
    A similar question would be, does a black anodised heatsink work better than a natural colour anodised heatsink?
    Actually there is no difference because it is about surface area exposed to the environment, and black costs more but does look nicer.
    Now you got me thinking, that would look so cool with a black heat sink, when I install my own personal unit, I think I am going to get anodised black, the same colourt as the cabinet frame.

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    To add to the panel requirements -

    11/ Earthing for the panels, I see some people feel the rails can be used and you only need to fit 1 earth lug.

    12/ Earthing back to the inverter.

    13/ Earth spikes.

    14/ Bonding it all together.

    15/ All the accessories for the earthing and bonding.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Isetech View Post
    To add to the panel requirements -

    11/ Earthing for the panels, I see some people feel the rails can be used and you only need to fit 1 earth lug.

    12/ Earthing back to the inverter.

    13/ Earth spikes.

    14/ Bonding it all together.

    15/ All the accessories for the earthing and bonding.
    Note that the PV frame earth, and DB electrical earth must not be connected. Each must have it's own earth path. The PV frame earth should be the shortest path to earth, and to the earth spike with a minimum of 6mm copper wire. This is to protect the system from a lightning strike on the roof or frame. You want to guide the electrical energy strike to earth, not to the house electrical earth. The earth on the inverter and electrical system is for the safety of the user in the case of a Live fault, in which the ELU will then disconnect the supply from the load/fault.
    Victor - Knowledge is a blessing or a curse, your current circumstances make you decide!
    Solar pumping, Solar Geyser & Solar Security lighting solutions - www.microsolve.co.za

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