Installing a Sunsynk inverter

[Isetech]

I have installed many inverters and old type batteries (FLA/gel and AGM) and genrators, but yet to install a lithium battery and solar panels, so this will be the part I will need to pay attention.

The next step will be the panel requirements-

1/ The roof tiles, type of brackets and rails to secure the panels.

2/ Make and type of panels.

3/ The angle of the roof.

4/ Which way the roof is facing and how many panels can fit on which section of the roof.

5/ Which panels which make up each string.

6/ The max VOC and current capacity for the MPPT's.

7/ Satelite images of the roof to verify the location and space on the roof, and the location of large trees, power lines, etc, which could create shading.

8/ The size and type of cabling rqeuired from the panels to the combiner box.

9/ The route and wireways, trunking or conduit, plastic or metal.

10/ A very important step, isolation, where and what type of isolation will be used to "switch off in case of emergency".

[Derlyn]

Just a question .. don't shoot me.

Is it a good idea to put the inverter inside a cabinet ? As far as cooling is concerned, would it not be better for it to be out in the open ?

All the installs that I have seen so far are in the open

[Isetech]

Just a question .. don't shoot me.

Is it a good idea to put the inverter inside a cabinet ? As far as cooling is concerned, would it not be better for it to be out in the open ?

All the installs that I have seen so far are in the open

Cooling is a priority, I have learnt that when it comes to inverters and batteries, best you fit the temp probe and make sure their adequate cooling.

The plan is not to fit the inverter inside a cabinet(not initially) but build a cabinet behind the inverter and the battery to hide all the wiring. I built a CCTV cabinet like this were the equipment is surface mounted but all the plugs and cabling is hidden behind it, its not as deep as a those big network cabinets but deep enough to hide everything.

[Isetech]

To add to the panel requirements -

11/ Earthing for the panels, I see some people feel the rails can be used and you only need to fit 1 earth lug.

12/ Earthing back to the inverter.

13/ Earth spikes.

14/ Bonding it all together.

15/ All the accessories for the earthing and bonding.

[Isetech]

Then we need a solar calculator. I see there calculators, if we get more than 10 installs (6 so far, 4 to go) , then I will get a paid version.

https://www.helioscope.com/

If you know of any good free calculators, let us know.

[Isetech]

I have downloaded the requirements for our local metro, to register the systems we install, apparently it is a long slow process. So I need to read the guidelines and understand the requirements. This is going to be the interesting part.

I have a ECSA registered engineer who has also completed the solar courses so he is green card certified. I am an MIE with 40 years hands on experience in the elctrical industry in everything from large scale industrial sites like Alsusaf, Mondi, RBM, even pharmaceutically labs, down to commercial building, banks and shopping centre, hospitals, theatres, and even down to plugs in light in a domestic installation. I think between the 2 of us we should have enough qualifications

[Justloadit]

To add to the panel requirements -

11/ Earthing for the panels, I see some people feel the rails can be used and you only need to fit 1 earth lug.

12/ Earthing back to the inverter.

13/ Earth spikes.

14/ Bonding it all together.

15/ All the accessories for the earthing and bonding.

Note that the PV frame earth, and DB electrical earth must not be connected. Each must have it's own earth path. The PV frame earth should be the shortest path to earth, and to the earth spike with a minimum of 6mm copper wire. This is to protect the system from a lightning strike on the roof or frame. You want to guide the electrical energy strike to earth, not to the house electrical earth. The earth on the inverter and electrical system is for the safety of the user in the case of a Live fault, in which the ELU will then disconnect the supply from the load/fault.

[Justloadit]

Apparently the 8.8 kva doesnt have a heat sink, but rather fans on the side, we will look into that, one day when I get one to tinker with.

The 8kVa does have a heatsink similar to the 5.5kVA, however because of the extra energy it has to contend with, it has a set of fans to help cool the heatsink when required.

[Isetech]

The 8kVa does have a heatsink similar to the 5.5kVA, however because of the extra energy it has to contend with, it has a set of fans to help cool the heatsink when required.

You just cant see them to due to the design and cover over the back. Which makes me wonder about the chimney effect, why are the fans on the side of the unit and not the top, do the fins go from side to side. Anyone have a picture of Sunsynk units with the heat sinks exposed. I am learning about these systems so please bear with me, like everything I do, I start right at the bottom and make sure I understand "everything", it requires some really dumb question in the beginning but at least by the time I engage with customers or other installers I am not fool on site with a mouth full of teeth when being audited .

[Isetech]

I see the 8.8 kva doesnt have the same mounting plate as the 5 kva, making the installation a little more challenging if you dont use the bolts provided and dont get the holes 100 % in line. I will make an ally template with the holes so I can just put the level on top and drill through the holes, then use either the HUS3-A6 or P6.

The fact that we dont need to worry about cooling up through the heat but rather side to side, means we can mount our panel directly to the bottom of the unit and not worry about restricting the air flow.

I would have thought there would be vents at the top on the unit, heat rises, but maybe that was taken into to consideration while designing the covers.