Yes without it if I recall correctly i would measure 98 volts around there of N to E. So I can see that cussing issues for electronics and also the ELU won't work.
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Yes without it if I recall correctly i would measure 98 volts around there of N to E. So I can see that cussing issues for electronics and also the ELU won't work.
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The reason is that all inverters have capacitors to earth from both neutral and live. These are to mitigate EMI/RFI from the switching transients. These capacitors cause current in the earth conductors: transient currents, plus some milliamps of 50 Hz current. Both of these make a Residual Current Device before the inverter more likely to nuisance trip. You can still have them, but not the usual 30 mA ones. But then of course, there is less protection so what is the pointOriginally Posted by Derlyn
Note the reference to class I and class II products.
Something else the I am still trying to wrap my head around, how I will fit a changeover/bypass switch in this system and as he mentions is not required.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtDb...hannel=Sunsynk
What I did with my Sunsynk/Deye inverter was to ignore the "island" output of the inverter you would normally use to power a relay to do the earth-neutral bond. Instead I installed a Hager 25A 1NO+1NC contactor in the DB. The contactor will close whenever grid power is lost and bond neutral to earth - and obviously when power restored, the contactor will open and break the bond. No particular reason other than it being neater in my opinion having it in the DB vs having it in the inverter cubby. Another reason I prefer doing it this way: The contactor will open immediately when grid power is restored whereas with the inverter, it will keep the relay powered (and thus the bond) until it synchronizes with the grid. By default configuration that is 60 seconds.
As for my earth leakage. I have two earth leakages. One for the grid, and another for the UPS output of the inverter. Both having their own separate neutral bars. The automatic transfer switches that I use will then switch the relevant circuits to either UPS Live+Neutral or Grid Live+Neutral.
Why a neutral/earth bond relay is used in conjunction with RCD's
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQR5...hannel=Sunsynk
A smart idea to make it a fail safe way of doing it, if the relay fails, it will trip your grid E/L unit.
Not sure why you do this ?
The hybrid inverter is bi directional so the power flows into the inverter and back out the inverter on the grid side. If the inverter goes into islanding mode and power is fed from the batteries, the solar panel could charge the batteries, but not feed back into the grid.
The only reason I would install a changeover/transfer/ bypass switch would be to feed power to the essential/UPS DB if the inverter had to be isolated from the system for maintenance or repair.
I am still trying to figue why a person would connect an earth leakage unit/RCB to the supply side of the inverter in SA ?
I cant wait to get the Sunsynk inverter so that I can start tinkering. I cant seem to find any 1C rated batteries at a reasonable price. Hubble and all their suppliers are out of stock. There is talk that Sunsynk have a 1 C battery being launched soon.
I would be interested to see your wiring configuration.
Hey man
So the bi directional is only when there is excess is solar..
So there are three ports.
Grid
Aux
Load
The load is where you connect your essential items.
Aux can be for genny input or other circuits that you want a small amount on essential but there is then a battery limit to when that circuit can be used. I.e between 60 and 70% then it can be used.
The grid is there you connect the feed Into from the DB, then when there is excess solar and batteries are full it then feeds back on that circuit to go to your non essential loads but does not back feed as the CT coil is installed as a goal keeper to stop it going past him.
When island mode is initiated as Eskom is off then the inverter will not feed any excess back on the Grid feed even if there is excess however your Load (essential circuits) will have access to the solar and batteries and also the Aux port.
Sorry if you knew all this but I am not 100% sure so figured just to type it in case
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Isetech (05-Feb-23)
Can the Sunsynk use batteries to feed back into the grid ?Hey man
So the bi directional is only when there is excess is solar..
Apologies if you know most of this already.
It depends on your usage I suppose. In my case, I want to have backup power if the grid goes down. So the transfer switch, switches my loads to the Sunsynk's UPS port. When the grid goes down, the Sunsynk doesn't push any power out of the GRID port so if you want to power anything during an outage, it has to be connected to the UPS port. BUT, this also means that when the grid is on, your loads are essentially being passed through the Sunsynk. And the Sunsynk 5kW I have is only rated for 35A current flowing through it. Given that on certains days where the dishwasher, washing machine and tumble dryer are running... switching on a kettle could exceed this. Hence the transfer switches. The transfer switches just allow me to swap the loads between pulling current through the inverter/having backup power OR pulling current directly from the DB. When the grid is on, and the inverter is feeding power through it's GRID port, the net result is the same.
The GRID port of the inverter should be connected BEFORE the EL/RCD. The UPS port of the inverter should have it's own EL/RCD.
Sure. Attached is the diagram from a year ago when I planned it. Might be a little unclear. DB_Export.pdfHaven't had any issues or nuisance trips whatsoever. I'm not an electrician or certified in anyway so use with caution. I just sent the diagram to a reputable electrician and had him come inspect after I did the job to get a CoC.
EDIT: PDF attached to post, but it doesn't seem to show. Here is a link.
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