Quote Originally Posted by ians View Post
the regulations states you cannot make a joint in a coupling ... so the couplings must go ... so you what you do is use a 25 mm pipe and epoxy the pushin glands in the 25 mm pipe ... no couplings ...no elbows .. no TEE- pieces

or use a heat gun and heat up the end of the 20 mm pvc pipe ... it makes it soft ... push the gland into the end of the pipe ... problems solved.

I am sorry but i am gonna dig my heels in on this one ... I WILL NOT BEND OVER and allow to be robbed of R80 for a joint when i can make a joint for under R5 ...i have just installed 10 x 10 watt flood lights ... it would have cost me R800 to extend the the ridiculous 10 cm long cable supplied with radiat flood light ... R50 or R800 ... i am gona take my chances with my pvc pipe

Dont forget the weather drip on the wire if you install it outside and make sure the glands are tight and seal the ends.
I'm with you on this one Ian. Most of the installations that I have seen ( talking about flood lights ) the guys use a through box with 2 glands and a lid with screws. ( Not acceptable by AIA ) Same with downlights.

The AIA states that 20 or 25mm through boxes are draw boxes and no connections are allowed in a draw box, so all those spotlights and down lights connected this way are not acceptable. That big tray we use in the ceiling that we refer to as a bonding tray is also a draw box, so no connections allowed in same. Have you ever come across a bonding tray in an attic without any connections in it ? I cannot remember ever seeing one.

Anyway, once again, thanks for the tip. I have bounced it off some of the ECA guys here and they reckon it ticks all the blocks. 1. weatherproof 2. no access to live parts without the use of a tool or key. 3. crimped connections with heatshrink ( mf joint ) no need for access to inspect.

Peace out .. Derek