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Thread: LED 4 ft and 5 ft tube wiring

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    LED 4 ft and 5 ft tube wiring

    I have been doing a number of "conversions" to standard 5 ft fittings... cut out all the control gear and wire directly to the lamp holder.

    While testing a brand new faulty tube (pioLED) at my local wholesaler the salesman told me the power was at the top of the fitting ..."BANG" it seemed as though load shedding had kicked in with a bang.

    Which brings me to modifying and wiring of fittings... it seems that PioLED have a resistor on one side of the tube which results in a bang if the tube is installed the wrong way.

    I watched a few videos on how people convert fittings and seems some people run and earth wire to the non power side of the fitting.

    What are your thoughts?

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    No spec or data sheets...no wiring no certification or approval ...am i missing something ?


    http://www.pioledlighting.co.za/

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    Can anyone explain to me why they fit a bridge across the one end of the tube which causes the circuit breaker to trip.

    Should the exposed type of lamp holder be used for this type of lamp...the one i am referring to is the one were the brass connections are exposed...the plastic cover holders should only be used ?

    Another very concerning factor to take into account...a bridge which looks like a starter.

    While visiting a wholesaler the other day i noticed a DIY customer purchasing an LED 5 ft lamp...which comes with a "starter" ...the salesman informed the customer that he could just remove the old lamp and starter and replace it with the LED lamps and starter.

    This got my interest because i havent seen that before ...i would normal remove all the internal components wire the lampholders directly to the 230 terminals and bingo light works ...if you insert the tube the right way...one of the reason i always label the power side...i was going to wire both sides...to make it easy for the customer ...however this proved to be a problem if pioLED lamps are used.

    Someone mentioned that the "starter" bridge is actually a fuse...which brings me to the next question...shouldnt it be compulsory to fit a fuse in line with the tube?

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    An LED driver ....wohoooo this special component required for LED lights...so what is an LED driver?

    A simple transformer...capacitor and bridge rectifier?

    I think it is time to take out my dremmel and cut a few drivers and tubes to see what all the fuss is about.

    I had an enquiry for a few hundred LED fittings...so i shopped around and found a really expansive LED fitting...you know...thinking more expansive...better quality and all the jazz... i was told the driver was the brains of the fitting and they used a driver imported from Germany...i compared it to nordland (who i have always trusted to be the lasted and best quality...especially when talking weather proof ...however there LED chips couldnt compare) so we spent R485 000 on a shipment of LED fittings for a factory ...installed them and imagine that 2 failed on start up...so i removed the fitting (very simple installation method...just pop off the clip on the top) ad decided to open it...the driver was the same as all the other drivers i had used on all the other LED fittings i have installed in the past.

    Customers always ask ...what happens when the fitting stops working...my response would be... well you have to replace the entire fitting... however this is not entirely true anymore...you can get spares and replace the driver and LED module.

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    I learnt something new today...

    Got a response from pioLED...much appreciated.

    They have international certifications of EMC and LVD for their T8 LED tubes...I have no idea what that means or if it is valid for use in SA...It seems we no longer require SABS standards for products we install in SA...these guys sell thousands if not hundreds of thousands of light fittings in SA.

    I assume we just get these certificates from them and attach it to our COC once the project is complete and tested.

    With regards to modifying a standard old 4/5 ft fluorescent to an LED... i have always ....just stripped the entire fitting and rewired it with 230 volts on one side and no wiring on the opposite side.

    The drawings i received from pioLED clearly show 2 different methods of rewiring the fittings...which explains why the other side of the tube is bridged.

    1 - You just strip everything and connect to one side of the fitting.

    2 - You dont strip the wires...you just bridge out the ballast ...remove the starter and fit the LED "starter" (which in some cases is a fuse and others it is a just a bridge...depending on the lamp supplier)
    The neutral goes onto one pin...the live goes to the opposite side lampholder through the lamp (which is why it is bridged on the opposite side) through the bridge/fuse "starter" and back onto the other side of the lamp.

    I actually prefer the second option if a fuse is used in place of the starter....and it saves time stripping the light then rewiring it...will be doing this in future.

    Google search converting a fluorescent light to led...there are plenty diagrams.

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    I am really liking these end caps... there is no longer a need for a light fitting to hold switch gear or create a reflective surface as the led only have a certain degree/angle of light...these look neat and practical.

    ooops cant seem to paste the pic.

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    Hi

    Retro fitting fluorescent fittings with LED tubes means rewiring the fitting.The minute you rewire the fitting you become the manufacturer and all the insurances and risks become yours.

    You need to comply to ARP 032 - 2014

    To migrate the risk it is cheaper to buy a channel that has been specifically wired for LED tubes - There is a minefield in the document.

    The installation regulations SANS 10142 prescribe that only SABS approved equipment may be installed in an electrical installation. The moment it is altered, changed or modified from the original design there is no way of ensuring compliance unless you follow the Approved Recommended Practice (ARP 032 – 2014 which consists of 6 sections), or an applicable approved standard. That means as soon as you retrofit the fitting you are as liable as the manufacture of the original product. You need to ensure that you carry out the tests as prescribed in the Code on this work done by you.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GCE View Post
    Hi

    Retro fitting fluorescent fittings with LED tubes means rewiring the fitting.The minute you rewire the fitting you become the manufacturer and all the insurances and risks become yours.

    You need to comply to ARP 032 - 2014

    To migrate the risk it is cheaper to buy a channel that has been specifically wired for LED tubes - There is a minefield in the document.

    The installation regulations SANS 10142 prescribe that only SABS approved equipment may be installed in an electrical installation. The moment it is altered, changed or modified from the original design there is no way of ensuring compliance unless you follow the Approved Recommended Practice (ARP 032 2014 which consists of 6 sections), or an applicable approved standard. That means as soon as you retrofit the fitting you are as liable as the manufacture of the original product. You need to ensure that you carry out the tests as prescribed in the Code on this work done by you.
    Interesting.

    Do you know of a company which has an SABS approval ?

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    i ordered some vapourloom weather proof fittings from ARB. the type prewired for LED lamps. they come without the internal plastic cover so all wires just hang on the clear cover. and they cost more than the one with the electronic ballast.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bergie View Post
    i ordered some vapourloom weather proof fittings from ARB. the type prewired for LED lamps. they come without the internal plastic cover so all wires just hang on the clear cover. and they cost more than the one with the electronic ballast.
    and did they have an SABS stamp of approval ?

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