Dave you hit the nail on the head with that one.
This is what I got taught from apprentice days. Earth continuity fail at the light switch or plug point, change it to pvc...
and then they found out that you actually have to insert the earth pin into the socket outlet and have to make sure the light fittings also comply with continuity as per table 8.1
I wonder who does this out of all of us registered electricians
8.7.3 Resistance of earth continuity conductor
Use a resistance meter to measure the resistance of the earth
continuity conductors between the consumer's earth terminal and the
earthing terminals of all points of consumption and switches. The
values shall not exceed those given in table 8.1.This was a big headache when I had to take over a site from another electrician back in the day working for another company (before being registered)All socket-outlets shall be tested by inserting a plug and including
the resistance of the earth pin in the measurements.
The light switches only had a live in and live out. They where spec'd for Clipsal S2000, then the client decided to have Clipsal S3000 installed. You know with the locators, separate leds...jeeez that was crazy as every light switch in his glory mansion in Southdowns had no earth or neutral. We then pulled in an earth for each switch as the person doing the CoC at that time said every light switch required an earth (galvanized wallbox) and we then connected the locators between live and earth (which caused them to flicker slower than when they are connected between live and neutral...)
Ow and good practice and also a requirement. Even thou the switch or socket is PVC, if the wallbox in the back is galvanized, stainless or any form of conductive material, earth it. I would even provide an earth if it is a PVC wallbox just because of the fact that they can install (Crabtree) steel switches or sockets in the future. As the inspector would say, rather put an extra earth for extra safety than not putting at all, who would prosecute you for adding more.
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