Installation of 220V downlights

[SparkyScott]

This is the joint box i use to use for lighting joints good to work with and tidy once finished.
Thanks for that link Andy.

[AndyD]

Maybe these will work then?

http://www.myvirtualpaper.com/doc/acdc-dynamics/acdc-dynamics-catalogue/2010093001/?referrer=http%3A//www.acdc.co.za/cattypenew.php#368

You can browse a few pages either side of the one linked for other options.

[johnnymes]

Hi Guys,
I found this thread on google and i have used some of the advice given here.

I am renovating my first house and one of the projects I decided to do is install new downlights everywhere, this I now realized is not as easy as 123 because of all the safety considerations.

Electricians have quoted between R30k and R40k to install about 55 of these lights, after seeing the quality of work they (the electrician's labourers) have done at my parents house and my house, i'm not prepared to let these guys destroy my roof again.

When the COC certificate was done just before I purchased the house, the "inspector" damaged the alarm system's wiring to the point where I decided to rip the whole system out of the roof. The same guy installed the geyser a few months before, his labourers cut the brandering under the roof tiles and never re-in forced it again, so the tiles were supported by lose wood, this fell in a few months ago causing a massive leak. Not to mention that the wiring connections to the geyser burned out and I had to repair this just a year after it was installed.


Yesterday I started with my bathroom's down lights, I built a junction box, and took a photo.

Do you guys think this is the right way to do it, and will this pass the standards?


I also need to hook this new junction box into the existing conduit fitting, what would you guys recommend I do there?

J.

[ians]

This is an interesting thread, i noticed mention of 12/230 volt downlights, 100 /200mm clearance etc.

Here is a picture of a 12/230 volt downlighter with a sans 60598-1-1999 approval number.

What i find rather interesting is that the heat resistant wire is 110 mm long, however the way the metal bracket secures onto the fitting makes the celarance between the lamp and the wiring about 70mm as you can see in the picture and provided the twin+e is pulled away fro the fitting could even touch the lamp. The right way to install this fitting would be to bend the plate so that the connection box is away from the lamp

[Sparks]

What I would like to know is the result of an earth continuity test on the fitting.

[Sparks]

Your junction box looks fine, only problem I have, and I am surely the only one in the country, is that you are using 3Amp connectors, but believe me no-one will fault you on that. I have a personal thing about connecting blocks. Now you just need to tackle the second photo.

[ians]

You wouldnt need a good earth continuity reading on the actual fitting, only the front of the lamp is touching it. If the brackets comes loose and falls off the fitting, it is no big deal either, because you will note in the pic there is a good earth connection on the metal bracket at which point the wiring is connected in a junction box.

[Didditmiself]

Murdock, asbestos tape? Can you still get anything asbestos, especially tape? I thought that it's a banned substance because it's proven to cause asbestosis (a form of cancer of the lungs).

[johnnymes]

I am using the exact same fitting from ARB, i was also thinking of bending it away from the bracket,as opposed to it lying on the ceiling next to the hole.
In the default configuration that box would be fried.

J.

This is an interesting thread, i noticed mention of 12/230 volt downlights, 100 /200mm clearance etc.

Here is a picture of a 12/230 volt downlighter with a sans 60598-1-1999 approval number.

What i find rather interesting is that the heat resistant wire is 110 mm long, however the way the metal bracket secures onto the fitting makes the celarance between the lamp and the wiring about 70mm as you can see in the picture and provided the twin+e is pulled away fro the fitting could even touch the lamp. The right way to install this fitting would be to bend the plate so that the connection box is away from the lamp

[johnnymes]

Thank you Sparks.

What kind of connector block would you have used in this scenario, i am finding that the bigger ones will limit the number of downlighters that can feed from the junction box because they cant fit in as neatly.

For the supply problem I am thinking of drilling a hole into a round conduit junction cover and feeding it through there...
This is a tricky situation, i can always re-build the PVC pipes but i see there's long wires running continuously through all of them, this means I will have to rejoin them somehow, and that could lead to a single pvc conduit junction box being too small for all of the wires..

J.

Your junction box looks fine, only problem I have, and I am surely the only one in the country, is that you are using 3Amp connectors, but believe me no-one will fault you on that. I have a personal thing about connecting blocks. Now you just need to tackle the second photo.

[Leecatt]

Hello

Does anybody know whether there is anything wrong with the following picture?? Or is the wiring correct. It has been declined for a COC.

Thanks

Hans

The entry box on the light is intended for one cable entry and if it is connected as such, and the lid fitted, that would be sufficient.
However there are two cables entering the entry box and it now has to be considered as a connection box.
6.3.7.3 Any armouring or sheathing shall be terminated in or on
equipment
The correct way of installing this type of lighting is to run one cable along the line of lights, interrupt the cable at each light with a 3 way box and run an additional cable from the 3 way box to the light. A four way box may also be used in a similar fashion
The distance of the cable from the globe is irrelevant in 220 volt fitting as the connector is also plastic and is sufficiently situated a safe distance from the globe. As long as the connected cable runs directly away from the fitting.
In a 12volt light fitting situation there is a required distance that the transformer needs to be from the globe because of the combined heat of both pieces of equipment.

[bergie]

hi jonnymes your connection box looks good. just connect another surfix to the round box using a dome cover.it has a 20mm threaded hole in it. the connector blocks look like 16 amp. look on the back to see the rating.

[johnnymes]

hi jonnymes your connection box looks good. just connect another surfix to the round box using a dome cover.it has a 20mm threaded hole in it. the connector blocks look like 16 amp. look on the back to see the rating.

I will be doing exactly this

[Leecatt]

I will be doing exactly this

Please be advised that it is illegal for any persons who is not a registered electrical contractor with the department of labour, to attempt any repair or installation work upon an electrical installation. Any subsequent damage to the installation or property will be the the responsibility of the person who has transgressed the law and your insurance company will most probably waiver their liability to any claims...just saying

[johnnymes]

Please be advised that it is illegal for any persons who is not a registered electrical contractor with the department of labour, to attempt any repair or installation work upon an electrical installation. Any subsequent damage to the installation or property will be the the responsibility of the person who has transgressed the law and your insurance company will most probably waiver their liability to any claims...just saying

Well aware of this fact.

I am doing most of the work myself because I just don't trust most electrical contractors anymore, and even if I use them, it will mean i have to supervise the contractor's self trained off the street laborer inside my roof to make sure I really get what im paying for.

When I am finished with my renovation, i am getting a trusted professional electrician in to do the CoC, and move my DB board.

J.