Stove Circuit / Circuits on new build ( Question )

[Derlyn]

Hi all

There have been many lengthy discussions regarding stoves on the forum before, but something has crept up and some guidance from my brothers will be appreciated as I'm not sure how to approach the following scenario.

Busy planning for new build.

The client is installing a Defy DHG 605 Gas stove in conjunction with a Defy DB 0489 Electric oven. They are separate units, but being installed one above the other as one unit.

The stove comes supplied with a power chord and 3 pin plugtop and manufacturer instructions that it should be plugged into a socket outlet and the connections must comply with SANS 10142.

The oven comes without a power chord and manufacturer instructions that it must be connected to a stove isolator and should not be on earth leakage.


Now according to SANS 10142, all socket outlets are to be on earth leakage, so that includes the socket outlet for the stove.
The oven is now not on earth leakage and is fed from the isolator.

So far, so good.

My problem now is that if you switch off the stove isolator, only the oven is isolated and not the stove.

How would one solve this problem other than fitting 2 isolators ( out of the question ) or
putting the oven circuit on earth leakage ( against manufacturer recommendations ) and feeding the socket outlet for the stove from the load side of the isolator ?

I do realize that a socket outlet does / can serve as an isolator, but one would assume that if you isolate the stove at the isolator, then both the stove and oven should be isolated.

Any suggestions ?

Derek

[Isetech]

We install 2 x 30 amp mcb's in the DB, run 2 x 4mm wires from the DB to 2 x 30 amps isolators mounted above the counter, chase the wall down behind the counter and install a 20 mm conduit. Been doing it this way since hobs and under oven became a thing. We very seldom do it this way anymore because nobody installs a electric hobs anymore, everyone installs gas hobs. We follow the gas regs for the elctrical install.

We do the same for washing machines, tumble driers and dishwashers (on new installs or kitchen revamps), the only difference is we use 20 amps mcb's, 2.5 mm wire and 20 amp isolators all connected to the earth leakage. Sometime we install dedicated socket outlets or and isolator for the deep freeze, not connected to the earth leakage.

[Derlyn]

Thanks Isetech

I,m trying to get away from using 2 isolators, whils't at the same time adhering to SANS 10142 and manufacturer specifications for both the stove and oven.

Derek

[Isetech]

If it was an old type hob on top and undercounter oven, then you could install 1 x 40 amp mcb with a 6 mm cable feeding a 45 amp isolator. You would connect the 6 mm wire to the oven section and the hob use to have a loom of wires with plugs to connect to the oven.

I had a customer a while back who needed to replace the hob, but not the oven, the appliance people insisted that he had to replace both because the loom plugs were different. I told him to buy the hob and give me the old and new hob, a quick 15 min rewire and it was sorted, happy customer.

Thanks Isetech

I,m trying to get away from using 2 isolators, whils't at the same time adhering to SANS 10142 and manufacturer specifications for both the stove and oven.

Derek

[Derlyn]

I've decided to pull in 2 circuits. 1) A stove circuit for the oven, not on earth leakage, with an isolator and 2) for the cooker top, a plug circuit with a socket outlet on earth leakage.

[Derlyn]

There was no way of avoiding 2 isolators. One for the oven and one for the hob next to each other.

The hob is on earth leakage and the oven not.

4 down. 62 to go.

[Isetech]

If I buy the place and decide to go with a gas hob, did you make sure there is enough clearance

[Derlyn]

Yep. Oven is electric, so no problem there. Isolator 45 cm from closest burner. 👍

[Derlyn]

Doubt if they gonna be sold. Student accommodations.