Flickering LED problem

[skatingsparks]

So what are the good ones???? Who sells ther good LED's? Just want to replace 50 watt GU10 10's for LED's. Have a potential customer who wants to roll them out in 15 or so shops. Anyone else want to add there opinion. If you were going to buy about 450 GU 10 watt cool white you would buy them from.............(fill in the blank)

[AndyD]

It's a balancing act between price and several other factors such as; what angle do they need? Must the lamps be dimmable? What light output in lumens do they require?

Can you give more details on the application?

[skatingsparks]

Ok so Someone sugested AVR(automatic voltage regulators) but they seem a bit bulky and Power coditioning units. Such as -

http://www.phdpowerhouse.co.za/index...onditioner.pdf

Any one tried these as a solution. Its driving me nuts.

As for the application of the LED's They are installed in bulkheads above glass shelves. I use them because the light from the LED's doesn't have a wide angle and has a quite a powerful beem straight down through glass shelving. The customers like them because the halogens were eating a lot of power, constantly failing and cool white LED's bring out the colours of the product and the Halogens were making the products on the top shelf fade due to them being baked by the heat from the Halogens. I used 220Volt LED's as it got rid of teh problem with teh transformers failing at mlost of teh existing transformers were electronic not wire wound which is not lekker for LED's.

[AndyD]

Ok so Someone sugested AVR(automatic voltage regulators) but they seem a bit bulky and Power coditioning units. Such as -
http://www.phdpowerhouse.co.za/index...onditioner.pdf
Any one tried these as a solution. Its driving me nuts.

The AVR would help if it's a power quality issue that's causing the failure, if it's not a power quality problem then it won't help. Most AVR's need to be mounted in the DB or a separate enclosure and it can be logistically tricky depending on the setup. You could also use a cheap UPS available from Makro/Game/HiFi Corruption etc which would have an AVR built-in. It often works out cheaper.

If the quality is poor then all you could maybe supply the lights via a cheap UPS, not so much for mains fail back-up, it's usually just the cheapest way to get clean power on low-current systems.

I used 220Volt LED's as it got rid of teh problem with teh transformers failing at mlost of teh existing transformers were electronic not wire wound which is not lekker for LED's.

This was a wise move, standard ELV downlight transformers can be problematic with LED lamps, they're often not a stable enough voltage at such low current requirements.

I'd be interested to know to make and model number of the lamps you've used, if for some reason you don't want to name them on the open forum maybe you would PM me the info.