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Thread: Wood protection

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    Wood protection

    I collect wood from various sources and i dont know whether it is treated or not.

    When i get the wood i send it through the thicknesser then i store it in the rafters in my garage.

    If i seal it with a stain then varnish it, will this protect it from bugs?

    I dont stain and varnish the wood until i make something with it.

    Anyone have ideas on how to protect the wood if it is not treated?

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    Site Caretaker Dave A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ians View Post
    If i seal it with a stain then varnish it, will this protect it from bugs?
    That would do the job quite well I reckon - with the exception of subterranean termites. In a sense you're creating a physical barrier that most can't (or will not) cross; a form of physical exclusion.
    The trouble with opportunity is it normally comes dressed up as work.

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    Thanks Dave

    How can i protect the wood stored in the rafters?

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    Hi Ian,
    A small caveat:
    In nature, wood compromising insects such as beetle... and similar, will enter the external layer of trees and wood in general. Females lay their eggs in the cracks and crevices of the bark and then upon hatching the larvae tunnel into the wood through the bark.
    We have occurrences here in the Western Cape where floors that have "thick" layers of varnish or paint, are compromised by Common Furniture beetle regardless of the paint or varnish or oils that are applied to the timbers.
    Furniture beetle are generally at the lower end of the scale as far as tenacity and resilience is concerned and there exists a colloquialism that goes: Hard wood-- Harder Beetle...
    If there is any doubt, and you want to keep the timbers... get them treated before you store them....by the time you see sawdust or holes... it's too late
    For the most part the physical barrier will act as a deterrent, .... the challenge is ... "you don't know what's inside in egg form, waiting to hatch.... unless you make a concerted effort to closely inspect for holes, or sawdust etc.. it's a bit of a gamble.
    Hope this helps
    Colin J

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    Thanks for the info.

    I collect wood from packing crates, so i dont know if the wood is treated.

    I have tried to see if it has a shade of green, but unfortunately it doesnt look like it.

    Tha crates come from all over the world.

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    Check if the timber has an ISPM 15 stamp on it. If not, it's highly unlikely it's treated. Wood packaging tends to be an area where not a cent more than necessary is spent.
    The trouble with opportunity is it normally comes dressed up as work.

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    hello sir i can tell you if you allow me to do this you can protect by using the earth oil and by covering it with water for a days.....

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    When you sell recycled wood furniture do you have to have it treated, by law?

    Are there product available to treat wood and if so do they work?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ians View Post
    When you sell recycled wood furniture do you have to have it treated, by law?
    You're not obliged by law to treat the timber made to use furniture, whether it's new or recycled timber.

    However, (and we have quite a few clients who have learned this at their cost) the purchaser may hold the supplier responsible for infestation that appears in the furniture within a reasonable period after they've bought it.

    In terms of treatment of timber, there are two angles to consider.

    In order to eliminate infestation that may already be in the timber, the product needs to penetrate the timber to reach the infestation already present. The most common method is fumigation with a suitable toxic gas - currently methyl bromide. It should be noted that this requires the applicator to be suitably registered in terms of Act 36 of 1947.

    In order to reduce the possibility of new infestation into the timber, full penetration of the timber isn't required, but there does need to be a residual effect. Advanced techniques include irradiation to alter the chemical composition, and pressure impregnation of chemicals. The more do-it-yourself method is to brush coat or soak the timber in a product such as CTX 108.
    The trouble with opportunity is it normally comes dressed up as work.

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    I am working on a way to "heat treat" wood using supper heated steam then allow it to slowly cool down. I don't know if it is a good idea or a bad one but I do know steam is not heavily regulated. Wood treatments are...
    here fishy fishy…

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