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Thread: Interesting question

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    Interesting question

    Hey all,
    I have just started a new job as a maintenance Electrician in a factory that has had no electrician for 12 years.Very , very hairy electrical work here!!
    I am preparing (trying ) the factory for its first ever COC believe it or not!
    Will be looking for an independent to inspect when I am finished.

    Now that the background is covered , here's the question - In the middle of the factory is an "assembly area" that requires 220 volt but it is impossible to fit permanent structures as trucks access the area to load. I am considering fitting a hinged pole into the existing channel in the floor with a plug attached.This will be suitably protected and fit flush with the floor with the plug facing down.When required it can be raised or lowered. (Extensions of 25 metres left over the floor are one of my pet hates)
    Would this be considered legal? If not,why?

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    my advice would be to classify each area first and list all components of the electrical installation...ka ratings of the panels etc ..before you even start then get someone to do an inspection report...with a break down of all the faults...list by priority...A - E immediate repairs being A and not so important being E.

    then scan all the panels with a thermal imager to give you an idea of how well the load is balanced and to check for hotspots...put a recorder on to the system and do a load profile for a week to get an idea of how much power you are using and how much you have for future new equipment installations.

    why i would advise all the above is to get an idea so that you could look at replacing various parts of the installation which need to be replaced with more energy efficient componants...depending on the size of the company...if it is like some of the factories i get involved in where there electricity accounts are R150 000 + saving 10 % can make you look real good.

    dont jump in the deep end then try swim to the surface...spend time planning and you could save yourself a lot of headaches...dont change things that are working until you know which direction you are heading...even if the wiring looks hectic

    hope this helps.

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    Thanx for the advice, I think that is the best route to go.
    I have spent the last 2 weeks with only a sidecutter and screwdriver cutting out dead and bad stuff. I have earned the dubious nickname of "sidecutter"

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    Quote Originally Posted by greasemonkey View Post
    Thanx for the advice, I think that is the best route to go.
    I have spent the last 2 weeks with only a sidecutter and screwdriver cutting out dead and bad stuff. I have earned the dubious nickname of "sidecutter"
    That's good, don't stop till they start calling you 'Grim Reaper' :-)

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    the most important advice i can give you is to implement a lockout system on all rotation equipment and electrical apparatus.

    test lockout and retest...never trust anyone when it comes to big stuff...many years ago when i qualified as a sparky...i was busy with and installation and the supervisor was a drunken fool...i dont know if he was an idiot or just never sobbered up...being young and inexperienced i took his word that he had isolated a panel where i had to terminate a 120 x 4 core ecc cable...as i approuched the panel it looked like they normally do harmless but little did i know it was waiting for me...as i grabbed both the busbar to pull myself into the panel...i realised the power was on...i sit here typing this thread because there was no load on the panel only 400 volts...the force pulled me against busbars and i shorted out all 3 phases...never again.

    i have seen so many accidents at work where people have lost fingers...hands...grinder blades in their head...and worst of all deaths

    my son lost a finger a couple of months ago...working on a table saw...left wood laying around on the floor thought he was clever slipped on the wood...when he tried to regain his balance his hand eneded up on the table...ching gone...less than a second.

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    i dont know how long you have been an electrician...or what qualifications you have...but if you need help post the questions and pictures if you can...some companies will not alllow cameras on site.

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    Thanx.
    Not that new in the trade. The economic climate has just moved me back to the tools. I am just horribly out of date with the laws and requirements.Here are some examples of my sidecutter escapades


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    Back to the plugtop/230V......The plug must have an ip rating sufficient to accommodate any water accumulating on the floor/flooding that may occur due to heavy rains. I would suggest that you put it on an earth leakage as well, regardless of its use i.e. designated etc....as this would assist in the level of protection seeing its location.

    The cable must be suitable for constant movement (think extension lead), so I would suggest you pull your armored/surfix to the middle of the floor (I would believe this is trenched?), mount a CCG box, from the other end fit welding cable/trailing cable....something that can handle the punishment and mount you IP socket outlet. If your level of movement is a few centimeters, then something as simple as GP wire in a ducting/trunking would suffice.

    I can only comment on the environment and installation I just pictured in my head. Point is, you need to "reasonable".....plenty of installations need some ingenuity, as long as you know that you have done it in the safest possible way, you thought of everything that could go wrong, and you precautioned against it.....this being said, what about a trailing cable (SS supports) hanging from the roof....now law against it, may just be very costly to ensure its safe?
    IJS Installations
    Electrical, Residential Gas and Electric fencing.

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    looking at those pictures...the famous saying customers love using...but it has worked for 20 years like that why do you want to change it.

    i havent commented about the 220 volt power point because i have a similar problem at one of my customers factories...i have tried various options but all have been destroyed so we just stick to the extensions and make sure the e/l unit works properly...we use 2.5 mm aqua cable for extention cords because they are slightly thicker but not as expensive as the trailing cable.

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    Given, but if done right it should last. An armoured cable to a CCG box close by, and from there an extention cord. Seeing you'll be replacing the cord every few months, and you would prefer not to join it, then make the replacement piece as short as possible.
    IJS Installations
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